The adjacent diagram shows a traditionally framed window opening from a recent project. Each of the major components are labeled and described below. It’s worth pointing out that this wall is on the gable side of the building which means there are very minimal vertical loads, hence the small window header.
Doors are framed in the same way as the window shown above without the lower sill and cripples. Obviously there are some small differences depending on local building codes and regional preferences. If you want to learn more about framing a building then I recommend you check out this Book On Framing.
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this was very informative thank you
how do you decide the size of the header as we are building a PWF basement and are trying to make sure our windows will be more then adequate. if there is no reply that is fine this information is lots to start with
thank you again
Matt - Header size depends on many factors including floor and roof loading from above depending on how the building is framed. Headers can range from 6 inches in depth from dimensional lumber all the way up to 12 or more inches with engineered lumber. In most cases your local lumber yard or code official can help with that. Good luck.
Very educating subject I really appreciate it.
Thank you very much
If my window is 18x24 do I make the rough frame exactly that size?
No sir....you need to make it larger in order to shim the window.
How much larger based on the aforementioned window dimensuons?
Thank you Todd, Checking out your info. has helped me to not make 1 crucial mistake. I wouldn't have known to install a double header plate in my garage addition. Always great to get the facts straight from a fellow New Hampshire neighbor.-Don
Thank you. A quick concise synopsis of some basic terms. I appreciated the simple article.
Very informative. As a full time carpenter myself, my only suggestion would be to change the short studs above the lintel to below the lintel, and push the lintel all the way to the underside of the top plate. This is not a necessary detail and does not affect the structural nature of a lintel, but if for any reason the window size is desired to be taller after the fact, the renovation process is much simpler.
I am having a concrete block house built, and i didn't see any framing dimensions for block walls with windows. My openings are about 44" x 64". What size window will go in this opening, and are they going to build an extra wood frame first to go in this opening?
You need to have an RO big enough to put a wood "buck" in first, then install the window.
Do I need a lintel if I am using shingles and a hip roof design. Total load transferred down to the walls is conservatively at 200 plf will the double top plate serve as my lintel
You def need a lintel
Todd,
Thank you for the article on framing. It is very informative. I would like to ask a question?
I have a patio that measures 17’4” Is it possible to put 2 60” RO windows and a 72” sliding patio door in this wall? If so how could I frame this? The patio was open and had a 17’4” X 10’ Hip roof (12” overhang) over it Supported by 2 decorative 4” posts on the outside and attached and framed into the house on the back side.